Beijing Restaurant Review: The Hood

By Will Philipps, January 7, 2015

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Photo by Noemi Cassanelli

There are two types of people in this world. Those who enjoy eating hotpot, and those who are grudgingly dragged to hotpot by friends who enjoy it far more than they do. If you find it an acquirable taste too far – too oily, too messy, not a burger – then neat and tidy The Hood is worth dipping into.

It’s a Taiwan-style Japanese Shabu Shabu hotpot, with a straightforward set menu focusing on strips of high-end imported wagyu Australian beef. Each diner has their own pot, allowing complete broth autonomy, so the whole process is much more manageable than your regular ‘lucky dip’ shared pot. Most seats are at a teppanyaki-style bar, so a chef’s assistance is close at hand should you need it.

It’s so dark and steamy inside you can barely make out the extremities of the restaurant, but just enough spotlighting is provided to make out the menu. It features a meticulous series of diagrams detailing what area of cow your wafer thin cuts of beef are sourced from. We try top blade (RMB228), oyster blade (RMB268), chuck tail flap (RMB238)  – all wagyu – and chuck roll (RMB98), all of which need two minutes maximum of blanching to best bring out the flavor. Paired with the sesame dipping sauce, among the best we’ve tried in Beijing, the flavor is to hotpot what a rich chocolate fondant is to desserts. Bring a (reluctant) friend – The Hood is some of the finest gourmet hotpot we’ve had in the city. 

Price: Set menus range from about RMB100-500.
Who’s going: Those who appreciate the difference between short rib and chuck flap.
Good for: Hotpot virgins, people with Taiwanese-Japanese heritage.


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